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-   -   Camber of road at driveway scrapes steadies (http://www.caravanning4u.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=26453)

terryr 27th June 2012 06:20 PM

Camber of road at driveway scrapes steadies
 
Hi guys

I have been putting up with this for nearly 25 years and now my wife has had enough. When we return from a trip I have to reverse the van into our drive. We live in a hilly area where the camber of the road at our drive is considerable (no kirb). At the pont where the vans wheels are in the gutter the back steadies scrape on our drive. We have tried putting down plamks of wood etc to lift the van with very limited success. Any ideas out there apart from digging up my drive?

Thanks again
Terryr

Graham (Ponty) 27th June 2012 06:38 PM

Hi Terry,

It might help if you could post some pictures so we can have a look at the problem.

Abbeyman 27th June 2012 08:30 PM

Dont you have a mover?
If you had one, you could set the A-frame right down on the jockey wheel; lifting the rear end up! that will help. Even a jockey wheel type would allow you to lower the front of the caravan somewhat, maybe just enough to keep that steady from touching the ground.
But with out pics its hard to say. Is the gutter deep? you could make a suitably shaped block of wood to keep the wheel up.
just a couple of ideas i thought i'd throw in!:wink:

What about the angle of attack? are you at an angle when its at this point? maybe a change of the angle might help! either the angle that the caravan is on as it reaches this point, or getting the car and caravan straight as you go to reverse in?

terryr 28th June 2012 07:39 AM

Hi guys, thanks

I will take some pics today and post them, though I am not sure howto do it

Terryr

Craig & Sue 28th June 2012 08:07 AM

I have a similar problem with one side. Driver side wheels on the drive, off side go up the kerb later because I back in on an angle to start. I have a 3' strip of checker plate that I put a shaped wooden block under to give it a gradual lift, now no rubbing. I've also had the same problem leaving some servo's after filling up. Next van will have 6" chassis rails and 15" wheels insteat of 4" and 14".

Rikijohn 28th June 2012 09:40 AM

Yes there is not a lot you can do other than Craigs comments above where you raise the blocks more than you are doing . The other thing that helps if the width of the driveway allows, is to pass over the gutter area on an angle just enough to get one wheel climbing out of the kerb/ gutter while the other one enters.

Surfer01 28th June 2012 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abbeyman (Post 220575)
Dont you have a mover?
If you had one, you could set the A-frame right down on the jockey wheel; lifting the rear end up! that will help. Even a jockey wheel type would allow you to lower the front of the caravan somewhat, maybe just enough to keep that steady from touching the ground.
But with out pics its hard to say. Is the gutter deep? you could make a suitably shaped block of wood to keep the wheel up.
just a couple of ideas i thought i'd throw in!:wink:

What about the angle of attack? are you at an angle when its at this point? maybe a change of the angle might help! either the angle that the caravan is on as it reaches this point, or getting the car and caravan straight as you go to reverse in?

If it is that steep, I doubt whether a motor mover would be any good.

beejay 28th June 2012 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig & Sue (Post 220602)
I have a similar problem with one side......
Next van will have 6" chassis rails and 15" wheels insteat of 4" and 14".

Will that help?
The axle will still be mounted below the bottom flange of the chassis so the ground to stub axle dimension will not change. Owing to the aspect ratios of suitable tyres there may be no gain or even a loss of height by changing from 14" to 15" wheels!!.

As an example:
185 x 14 radius 12.8"
195/60 x 15 radius 12.1 " .......a loss of 0.7"
195/70 x 15 radius 12.9"....... a gain of 0.1"
205/65 x 15 radius 12.7"........a loss of 0.1"

Craig & Sue 29th June 2012 08:49 AM

5 Attachment(s)
Hi beejay, I understand what your saying but its the rails that make the difference.
The tyres on mine are 195R14C8PR LT with a profile of 5". Most vans here use light truck tyres for the weight. Diam 13".( Pic 1)
The bearers that the floor and frame are mounted to are on 4" rails ( Pic 2,3 )
Having 6" rails, which is an option when you get one built, you have lifted the van and corner steadies 2",so now they don't hit the ground and by going to 15" rims and tyres to suit, they fill the guards. ( Pic 4,5 )

DaveA 29th June 2012 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Surfer01 (Post 220611)
If it is that steep, I doubt whether a motor mover would be any good.

With a motor mover you could maybe, move the van forward up the drive and park van other way round, if that's possible.

terryr 29th June 2012 02:27 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Hi guys

Here are the pics of my drive.

Terryr

fishman 29th June 2012 02:55 PM

Very quick thought how about a longish drop plate on car bar with another ball on, IE nose of van lower just for reversing. How long do they scrape for ?? How about some skid plates in steel/alluminium that hang on rear grab handles so they reach just under the legs and slide easy, Simply hang them on then lift them off. They would need some sort of pegs upturn whatever so they rest against the leg bracket or something so the ropes are not holding all the weight. maybe the nose turned up would make them side and the legs would be against the upstand

Surfer01 29th June 2012 03:35 PM

A decent motor mover should be able to handle that sort of incline.

expat1 29th June 2012 06:09 PM

Looking at you pictures the drive doesn't appear to be that steep (might be an opticle illusion though) so as Surfer says a decent mover should be able to cope. The problem is that the road level appears to on a par with the level of your actual drive and the camber towards the dropped kerb is quite severe. As a result when the wheels are in a hollow and the chassis line of the van (even when level is probably not much above the level of your drive. You need to get the front of the van down so as to raise the back (which you could do with a mover) or you need some form o plate / ramp that overs the lower sections of the road and dropped kerb bringing the levels up (did that make sense?).

Graham (Ponty) 29th June 2012 06:58 PM

Hi Terry,

Looking at your drive in the pictures it does seem to be a lot higher than the road level and to make it even worse the gutter seems to be quite low. Without knowing the lenth of your van I would say it's quite long so by the time the wheels are in the gutter the back end is touching the floor at the point where your drive meets the stone pavement. You could try removing the last three lines of stone where it goes into your drive and replacing with the chippings you already have, that might give you a couple of inches spare. Failing that you could lay down some board to cover the gutter but put a piece of 3" x 2" timber under the board in the gutter area so that when the wheels go over the board it does not sink under the weight of the caravan. I would say the board needs to be around 4ft long with about 2"- 6" being placed on the road side of the gutter.

HTH

Graham

Craig & Sue 29th June 2012 09:23 PM

The pic's show a different story to what I pictured. Nice setting by the way.

You have the stones for your "ramp" enterance on the street which need to be extended out a little and raised, as do the stones on the side of your drive to be level. There's been lots of traffic across over the years by the look.
We to can have a "ramp" on the street to the curb like you, but must leave a channel against the curb for water flow down the street. Our Council will come and do it in either cement or bitumen.

Rikijohn 29th June 2012 09:49 PM

Your pics clearly identify your problem and my suggestion of an angle entry will never work as you don't have the width. To me it is a ramp , re construct the driveway or a motor mover so as suggested you can lower the drawbar. My friends house in Ashburton is just the same and it is also causing him the same issues.

Abbeyman 29th June 2012 10:44 PM

A couple of old scaffold boards about 6ft long, with sequential blocks on the underside like bridge pillars, to span the low areas at the end of the drive and the edge of the road, so the boards dont bend; keeping the caravan level and up out of the hole. both can be made the same, same length etc, scaffold boards are about 10" wide so thets fine. someone on each side of the caravan watching to make sure the caravan wheels stay in the midle (i.e. not off to one side) of each board, its only for the time when you are taking the caravan in or taking it out; so you could even leave them at the end of the drive under a hedge to save having to haul them out down the drive every time theyre needed. They dont have to be heavy; just strong!:wink:

beejay 30th June 2012 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig & Sue (Post 220653)
Hi beejay, I understand what your saying but its the rails that make the difference.
The tyres on mine are 195R14C8PR LT with a profile of 5". Most vans here use light truck tyres for the weight. Diam 13".( Pic 1)
The bearers that the floor and frame are mounted to are on 4" rails ( Pic 2,3 )
Having 6" rails, which is an option when you get one built, you have lifted the van and corner steadies 2",so now they don't hit the ground and by going to 15" rims and tyres to suit, they fill the guards. ( Pic 4,5 )

Quite obviously the Australian type of caravan to which you were referring is of completely different construction to the European type which the OP has..

terryr 2nd July 2012 09:00 AM

Hello everybody

I do appreciate the interest and good advice from you all. Looks like I will be making a ramp.
Thanks again.

Terryr

FlyingTog 8th July 2012 01:36 PM

There might be a few ideas here than can help;

http://blog.bridjit.com/tag/bridjit-com/

http://www.highway1.co.nz/kerb-ramps.html


I'm not saying these are the solution, but it might lead you on to something.


A while ago, we had the drive altered and I think it cost us around 300 for the council to come and resurface the pavement crossing and reinstate a kerb stone.

Maybe there is an option to pay your local council to resurface and improve the pavement crossing?

Failing that, anything here that is a source of inspiration? http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=gut...w=1211&bih=850


SImon


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